tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58408204954389196832024-02-20T10:36:11.936-08:00ReinCARNATIONReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-67441927829258908732015-05-06T15:33:00.001-07:002015-05-06T15:33:29.679-07:00Ribbon Hair Bow Tutorial<br />
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This tutorial is for a 3 tiered ribbon hairbow attached to a metal hairband. You could attach this bow to a comb, or barrette if you choose.<br />
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You will need:<br />
a long ruler<br />
3" ribbon<br />
7/8th or 1" inch ribbon<br />
1/4" metal hairband<br />
a hot knife or woodburner tool<br />
an iron<br />
a sleeve ham<br />
sewing machine<br />
matching thread or clear nylon thread<br />
millinery hand needle<br />
pins<br />
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Using your long ruler measure and cut your ribbon as follows:<br />
3" ribbon:<br />
14 1/2"<br />
13"<br />
10 1/2"<br />
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7/8ths or 1" ribbon:<br />
16 5/8th"<br />
3 1/2"<br />
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Using the hot knife sear the cut edges of all ribbon pieces.<br />
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When you sear your ribbon, be careful! The tool gets super hot and it's easy to melt through your ribbon. Also, do this in a well ventilated space. Open a window, and turn on a fan. :)</div>
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Next, you'll cover your hairband...</div>
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Using the 7/8ths ribbon cut to 16 5/8th"and your sewing machine, fold the ribbon in half, to make a casing and make a neat topstitch. I like to use clear nylon thread for this, as it virtually disappears.</div>
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Now run your hairband through the casing.<br />
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Now roll over the seared edges and using and sewing needle... I prefer a long millinery needle, whip stitch them down.</div>
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Now get together all 3 of your 3" ribbon pieces. I will refer to these as Small (S) Medium (M) and Large (L) in respect to their lengths from now on FYI.</div>
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Fold all 3" ribbons in half and using a 1/2 seam allowance make a loop of ribbon. I like to do this continuously to make the process go faster. This is helpful when making several bows at once... this way no pieces are misplaced and everything is kept together in a group.</div>
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Now it's time to press a center crease in your 3" ribbon as well as to press the seam allowances open. You really need to be careful and use a sleeve ham or clap board to make sure that your bows remain natural looking and not too stiff.</div>
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To find the center mark for your 3" ribbons, lay your ribbons flat on your iron board, with the stitched edges on your ribbons top edge, run your steam iron flat down the ribbon and at the other edge create a hard firm crease.</div>
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Use a sleeve ham, or some other narrow pressing tool... (a stuffed tube sock will work) and press open the seam allowances.</div>
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It's important that you preserve the pleasant "fullness" that your ribbon will have when your careful to not press the ribbons outside edges... this is why using a ham is so important. When you match up the seam and the center fold there should be a definite tear drop shape.</div>
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Next match up the seams and center folds on all three 3" pieces. Stitch down the center of all three pieces. I use the center fold as my sewing line.</div>
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Now stack the 3" pieces S, M, L. The S should over lap the M by half of it's width, and the Medium should over lap the L by half of it's width... like so:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGX77e0bQxZPXj0v81CzBZstYLwQuMlA69HwZ6B14jXP-gLPLrlqdQ1KFr4-ZIB2IbL-XHGzzbtd_DOXrRzqZzerZlzjCAsXDOTGihqTXYReUrryK7-dW_aImJw5KfFzd06OyxG3JeJRY/s1600/17186965837_f6f6973614_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGX77e0bQxZPXj0v81CzBZstYLwQuMlA69HwZ6B14jXP-gLPLrlqdQ1KFr4-ZIB2IbL-XHGzzbtd_DOXrRzqZzerZlzjCAsXDOTGihqTXYReUrryK7-dW_aImJw5KfFzd06OyxG3JeJRY/s1600/17186965837_f6f6973614_z.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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The S should lay on top with nothing over lapping it.</div>
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Next, stitch down the center:</div>
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Next pleat... This isn't an exact science.... Just try to keep the pleats about 1/2" or so, don't let any of the ribbon edges show, and try to have 4 pleats visible from the front. Like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNmxxDIYmOYu4g2AlivxPwpjzAXGPD-rMLIay4jRPWuvvH4Q-0FeeLppREySk2i_UqMKTlaydGYliPdEPVzj931WiXgsX2DHGN13dpS8OlymHgpR8isZ6QWYJ8lMetL4OH4J5c2YuHugs/s1600/17394428405_98d45beb85_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNmxxDIYmOYu4g2AlivxPwpjzAXGPD-rMLIay4jRPWuvvH4Q-0FeeLppREySk2i_UqMKTlaydGYliPdEPVzj931WiXgsX2DHGN13dpS8OlymHgpR8isZ6QWYJ8lMetL4OH4J5c2YuHugs/s1600/17394428405_98d45beb85_z.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now using a long Millinery hand needle and a strong matching thread insert the needle 1/4 of an inch from the center stitching line, and towards the front edge of the bow... Like this:<br />
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Pull the needle through, and then do the same on the other side of the stitching center line. Do this several times. Basically you are taking big chunky stitches all the say through the bow. Do this on the bottom edge as well... It should look like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3jAYZx98zKfu03p7EuXYUS5vO6ssdnmXbCWkbbYpPZ4YTrsPUqMA0afVaQIPrsJu9WgiD-jw4If-nwaK8BwU2yqbWQ5XMUekJrGXj9a4J7uCTEbndPi_xhAyuJt2OSzHd06m8sH8_TEE/s1600/17206648258_0e03f59f95_z+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3jAYZx98zKfu03p7EuXYUS5vO6ssdnmXbCWkbbYpPZ4YTrsPUqMA0afVaQIPrsJu9WgiD-jw4If-nwaK8BwU2yqbWQ5XMUekJrGXj9a4J7uCTEbndPi_xhAyuJt2OSzHd06m8sH8_TEE/s1600/17206648258_0e03f59f95_z+(1).jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can see 2 lines of big stitches on either side of the bow.</div>
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Now make a mark on your hair band 4 inches from the bottom edge:</div>
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Match the bows stitching lines to the mark you made on your hair band. Whip stitch your bow to the band... do this securely so that both edges are sewn to the hair band.</div>
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Now you add the 3 1/2" piece of 7/8th or 1" ribbon. Sew it to the hair band using a whip stitch. </div>
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At this point the bow is done! yay! Keep in mind that you can add lace and bead or charms to your bows to customize them.</div>
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<br />ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-84590742682355786282015-04-08T13:40:00.000-07:002015-04-08T13:55:49.868-07:00Partially Elasticized Waistband TutorialThis Tutorial uses math and your measurements to draft a waistband. It closes with a system called a "Continuous Lapped Placket". This means that if you are planning on using a zipper, this isn't the tutorial for you. It can be altered to use a zipper, however at this time I'm not going to include that information. If you are interested in that, please contact me and I'll add it.<br />
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<h2>
TAKE YOUR MEASUREMENTS</h2>
<div>
This waistband will replace the waistand on any skirt pattern that you may decide to use as long as the skirt has a side seam, and the skirt starts at your natural waist.</div>
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<h3>
Find your natural waist</h3>
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To find your natural waist, bend at your waist from side to side and front and back. The place where your skin creases is your natural waist. Using a soft tailors measuring tape, place your tape on your natural waist and measure around your torso.</div>
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<h2>
DRAFT YOUR PATTERN</h2>
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Using your waist measurment, divide that number in half. One half is the front and the other the back.</div>
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The front is simple enough, you'll just need to add your seam allowances. I use 1/2" seam allowance, so 1/2" on the left and 1/2" on the right, equals 1" total of seam allowance. You will need to add that to each waist band measurement.</div>
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The back is a bit more complicated. You will divide half of the total waist measurment in 3rds. The placket side (wearers right) add 2" to the 3rd measurment. The side seam (wearers left) add nothing to the 3rd measurment. The center is a shirring panel, double the 3rd measurment. </div>
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The only other piece you will need is the continuous lapped placket. That piece is 15" x 5".</div>
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Make sure you add 1" to each pattern piece for seam allowance.</div>
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At this point you have all of your horizontal dimentions. Each of these peices will be 5" wide.</div>
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<h4>
An Example:</h4>
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If your waist is 30"...</div>
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<div>
Your Front is 16" x 5"</div>
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(right side back) 8" x 5"</div>
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(center back) 11" x 5"</div>
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(left side back) 6" x 5"</div>
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<div>
These measurements include seam allowances.</div>
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<h2>
ADD INTERFACING</h2>
<div>
Use iron on interfacing to front, side backs (right and left) and continuous lapped placket. For each of these pieces, cut interfacing 3" wide x your horizontal measurement. Apply the interfacing along one horizontal length to the wrong side of each piece. 2" of each piece will be uncovered.</div>
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After applying the interfacing, fold each piece including the shirring panel in half, so that the 5" measurment is now 2.5".<br />
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<h2>
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS</h2>
<h3>
Shirring Panel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<h3>
Mark your elastic casings</h3>
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You will mark the casings as follows:</div>
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1/2"</div>
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7/8"</div>
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1 1/4"</div>
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1 3/4"</div>
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2 1/8"</div>
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2 1/2"</div>
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Fold the 5" length in half along your 2 1/2"mark, and using a method called "pin basting", pin along every other elastic casing. Make sure all of your pins are set the same way.</div>
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You will sew from pin tip to tip. You will pull the pins out as you go. Using this method ensures that the layers of fabric won't become skewed as you sew.</div>
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When you're done it should look like this:<br />
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<h2>
Add Elastic to the Casings</h2>
You will cut three 1/4" pieces of elastic half the length of your shirring panel. <br />
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You can use many tools to pull the elastic through your casings. I prefer a<a href="http://www.bblackandsons.com/ball-point-bodkin-p-1022.html?zenid=2cda67d943fabef9474a6cea7c77f9c9" target="_blank"> bodkin</a>, or a <a href="http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/fasturn+set.do" target="_blank">Fasturn</a>. I suggest you try a number of different methods to see what you like the best. Just make sure your elastic doesn't turn and twist in it's casing.<br />
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When your elastic has been placed in the casings, stitch them in place along both ends... back stitch over them to secure them down. You'll use a 1/2 seam allowance.<br />
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<h2>
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<h2>
Complete the Back Section</h2>
The most important part of this construction section is to make sure that you place the interfaced side of Left and Right Backs on the same side. The interfaced side is the inside. The plain the fashion side.<br />
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The shorter section goes on the wearers left and the longer on the wearers right. You will attach the sides to the center shirring panel the same way on both sides.<br />
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1. Match up the fold line of the side panel and the folded edge on the shirring panel. Matching right sides together, pin the side panel to the shirring panel on the un-interfaced side ONLY.<br />
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It's a good idea to use your stitch line that holds the elastic in place as your guide. I stitch just to the inside of the original stitches, just to make sure that no stitches will be visible once everything is turned right side out.</div>
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2. Now fold over the side panel at it's center crease. Pin in place, and stitch it to the shirring panel.</div>
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When your done with both sides it should look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmu4VJKdKOUuCGeTqrMB0pd3I36hOXDiH3p_e-F857PRJPYcHI_P-JWKrfVcOzN-47Yw3QWd28Whrl-bu1FsEOFtvLhPbdf1_k9Yb5CV4BX4B5PlqK-3pyFlGbjMueyqnt15GBRVunzTc/s1600/16203103564_e06529a965_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmu4VJKdKOUuCGeTqrMB0pd3I36hOXDiH3p_e-F857PRJPYcHI_P-JWKrfVcOzN-47Yw3QWd28Whrl-bu1FsEOFtvLhPbdf1_k9Yb5CV4BX4B5PlqK-3pyFlGbjMueyqnt15GBRVunzTc/s1600/16203103564_e06529a965_o.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkEOL6xJ5mG2HOKH1E8-ESMU2rC7j6hHOag-MVGL7HuE2bkQ2udVEXXvXf_R7X3D36TUbJxHDWKNlFvmTD-aQCHNKUZBe1ZB6MOYL0jUXY-59Olb5SoD9-LhD73jnW0UgTjVfuCcBzOzo/s1600/16203180984_fbbe4d63b2_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkEOL6xJ5mG2HOKH1E8-ESMU2rC7j6hHOag-MVGL7HuE2bkQ2udVEXXvXf_R7X3D36TUbJxHDWKNlFvmTD-aQCHNKUZBe1ZB6MOYL0jUXY-59Olb5SoD9-LhD73jnW0UgTjVfuCcBzOzo/s1600/16203180984_fbbe4d63b2_o.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Attach Front to Back</h2>
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This is simple enough... you'll join them, right sides together, matching center creases, interfacing side to interfacing side un-interfaced side to un-interfaced side.</div>
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Evidently, I forgot to snap a pic of this step. sigh... I'm a human after all.</div>
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Finish off Opening Edges</h2>
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The Right side edge front, and Right side edge back are the opening edges of your skirt, as such they need to be given a finished edge.</div>
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You will simply fold those two edges over itself on it's center crease line, right sides together. Using a 1/2 seam allowance, stitch the edge closed.</div>
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At this point your waistband is done. You may however decide to put a stay stitch line on the interfaced side of your waistband. Basically this line of stitches helps you attach the waistband to the skirt. It's not necessary however. You can also apply topstitching at the waistbands top edge.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFFWs4z_gB0OAUrPJQ_TXH2GApm2ehH1FdlUhR9JDyL2LbTQ3OgMmzeEuM09WyIuUdfQztudyN1XNUYeNkT8eDPvJQtRaeukF1g4EGtuB-pmEwS_MVhSVtb4XWJDIVXMWqLonSJnMMLhw/s1600/16639425539_140939767f_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFFWs4z_gB0OAUrPJQ_TXH2GApm2ehH1FdlUhR9JDyL2LbTQ3OgMmzeEuM09WyIuUdfQztudyN1XNUYeNkT8eDPvJQtRaeukF1g4EGtuB-pmEwS_MVhSVtb4XWJDIVXMWqLonSJnMMLhw/s1600/16639425539_140939767f_o.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Appling stay stitching</div>
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Top stitching applied</div>
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Finished Waistband</div>
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The next thing you'll do is to apply the Continuous Lapped placket. I'll make a pictorial tutorial for that eventually, but until then here is a great video tutorial... Lapped Plackets are great!</div>
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<a href="http://www.ehow.com/video_4438197_sewing-tips_-putting-continuous-lap.html">http://www.ehow.com/video_4438197_sewing-tips_-putting-continuous-lap.html</a></div>
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My skirt with the waistband attached.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLHhZVK-t9Yq3JBhc6jThFoNnNSeW0sYpswcVcqU8-CrsdvRCwM5KS4KLV1pflRrarw_tzn-0tW0AlmA8dJHLt6B7e8KANAuQVzkdHJU5WXWeai0_CeQggWGEED4UO9l8WDPg4vAbiFtY/s1600/11149510_10205597675594123_5616025304658762830_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLHhZVK-t9Yq3JBhc6jThFoNnNSeW0sYpswcVcqU8-CrsdvRCwM5KS4KLV1pflRrarw_tzn-0tW0AlmA8dJHLt6B7e8KANAuQVzkdHJU5WXWeai0_CeQggWGEED4UO9l8WDPg4vAbiFtY/s1600/11149510_10205597675594123_5616025304658762830_n.jpg" height="320" width="176" /></a></div>
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-20201736526743843432014-01-06T17:15:00.001-08:002014-01-06T17:26:04.763-08:00Gathering Tutorial<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/xFcsIW3chTk" width="480"></iframe>ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-14404713392569198832013-12-21T11:49:00.000-08:002013-12-21T12:07:15.938-08:00View C part 3<h3>
Exterior Layer</h3>
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The exterior layer is constructed the same as the interior layer of<a href="http://reincarnationlolita.blogspot.com/2013/12/view-b-part-2.html?m=0" target="_blank"> View B</a>. The only exception being that you will have the shirring channel side visible.<br />
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Compare the difference between View B and View C:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRJ1nzhz_Eqf02cWhgub_7ljsKRj3AV0BbDxabh-F4w_tMDwPp9uNo_Lyi7jynz0s3stYLYL4XLKFjQTB4RZKE8LANiFF5SOdrtErb3vg5Al3xzz9wqMpFQT7O6rFinw1LvdEYVX23NJs/s1600/20131127_152033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRJ1nzhz_Eqf02cWhgub_7ljsKRj3AV0BbDxabh-F4w_tMDwPp9uNo_Lyi7jynz0s3stYLYL4XLKFjQTB4RZKE8LANiFF5SOdrtErb3vg5Al3xzz9wqMpFQT7O6rFinw1LvdEYVX23NJs/s320/20131127_152033.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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View B</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3eixadBbtVWe2biA1Zp4GKE0mnjW7kbjzsbq4tR-t7LmVhcvPfuYqt_Ulyr8rpbKQ6UqhCj6KiGlDvd6EoozEBGV4i_8sHT98e6z12ZrSK99dlirqD1dDTMyyuxJArTTXhWS1H6yx5f8/s1600/20131213_163939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3eixadBbtVWe2biA1Zp4GKE0mnjW7kbjzsbq4tR-t7LmVhcvPfuYqt_Ulyr8rpbKQ6UqhCj6KiGlDvd6EoozEBGV4i_8sHT98e6z12ZrSK99dlirqD1dDTMyyuxJArTTXhWS1H6yx5f8/s320/20131213_163939.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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View C</div>
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The only difference is that View C's shirring is on the right side, and View B's is on the wrong side.<br />
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All the construction is the same. Applying to the buckram form is the same except that you will apply it to the exterior in View C and the Interior in View B.<br />
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I am including construction pictures.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYqCikbtPXD6PyQioKD5G-_RKoxqzjke74TWxz5r6u6aoHbLrjAcVZGWsuPTNUImrdhmYa-99aP3zmI-vmhHdbPuf0K_ADosUgiWodU7SNul3bqnERgHsY0RJBDATumkJLqM9uuZCQwSo/s1600/20131213_130020_LLS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYqCikbtPXD6PyQioKD5G-_RKoxqzjke74TWxz5r6u6aoHbLrjAcVZGWsuPTNUImrdhmYa-99aP3zmI-vmhHdbPuf0K_ADosUgiWodU7SNul3bqnERgHsY0RJBDATumkJLqM9uuZCQwSo/s320/20131213_130020_LLS.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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As in View B you will use a whip stitch to attach the exterior layer to the buckram form.</div>
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<h3>
Apply Interior Layer to Buckram Form</h3>
Next as in <a href="http://reincarnationlolita.blogspot.com/2013/12/view-b-part-3.html?m=0" target="_blank">View B</a> you will use a slip stitch to apply the interior layer. I'm including my construction pictures.<br />
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This concludes the Tutorials for the "Dinah" Bonnet pattern. I hope that if you have any questions you will message me, or ask them here on the blog. I have faith that you will finish the bonnets and give me honest and thorough feedback. I'm counting on you guys! :) Thanks again for agreeing to participate in this project! :)<br />
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-2308009391682769152013-12-21T10:24:00.000-08:002013-12-21T11:54:45.595-08:00View C part 2<h3>
Interior Layer</h3>
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You are going to construct the interior layer exactly the same way as you did for the exterior layer of <a href="http://reincarnationlolita.blogspot.com/2013/12/view-b-part-1.html?m=1" target="_blank">View B</a>, except you will be applying ruffled trim on the placement lines as in <a href="http://reincarnationlolita.blogspot.com/2013/11/view-part-2.html?m=1" target="_blank">View A</a>.</div>
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I'm not going to rehash those tutorals, but I would like to explain how to make and use </div>
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piping.<br />
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Making Piping</h3>
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You should cut enough 1 1/4 inch bias to make 2 yards. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-MKzR_JsvEFbHLZKaDdBYzSra24zv0doV1UQAK0H7W9V2NUA6Czb_mYcyYq6XfoBdBEbncgzlaB066JY1WO3OXipbOkMQNdy2LE4uufNLwCZ1818c7PTLCvWqzjEzohNWvlSF3sHeYY/s1600/20131212_170400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-MKzR_JsvEFbHLZKaDdBYzSra24zv0doV1UQAK0H7W9V2NUA6Czb_mYcyYq6XfoBdBEbncgzlaB066JY1WO3OXipbOkMQNdy2LE4uufNLwCZ1818c7PTLCvWqzjEzohNWvlSF3sHeYY/s320/20131212_170400.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I like thin piping, so I use <span id="goog_1683250506"></span><a href="http://www.peachesandcreme.com/" target="_blank">100% cotton yarn</a><span id="goog_1683250507"></span> as the filling for my piping and a zipper foot to construct it.<br />
Your going to fold the bias tape in half and encase the cotton yarn in the bias tape. In the end you will make 2 sewing lines on the piping. First to encase the yarn, and second to attach the piping to the interior layer. The first line of sewing should be a scant 1/16 of an inch closer to the raw bias edge, and the second as close to the cotton yarn as possible without sewing into the yarn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhemDxioMaMg5y9Q7eD2Mm03T5T7GRWqY87q-J6ZKpyPpTTAMaK2J4K492RRsjWUohyphenhyphenLsr3zGgJ7KqQcBIrYORqUuFOd8ZhMs2W6L9DGtUH3bIEbTRXvTvxVmnTmEmwgAJrBGeaHWZQ7xM/s1600/20131212_171227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhemDxioMaMg5y9Q7eD2Mm03T5T7GRWqY87q-J6ZKpyPpTTAMaK2J4K492RRsjWUohyphenhyphenLsr3zGgJ7KqQcBIrYORqUuFOd8ZhMs2W6L9DGtUH3bIEbTRXvTvxVmnTmEmwgAJrBGeaHWZQ7xM/s320/20131212_171227.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Start applying piping at center back on crown. When attatching the piping to the interior layer, to get around outside curves, pull the cotton yarn a small amount. Smooth out the bias tape so that it lays smooth over the curve.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ7k8hw2p9-LQPlXV5sdiVN0SAkqaGyPhz9dqqg7cZAcDKjTKfHLBBgIZLobBhE9hoEx-nQZ_lmqoI-5obbeaYTOnw8ofFhBz5FPIXrp-Q4NX08XcgBRj2TZd-iRsD6tLA3zZTvyNQHNY/s1600/20131216_064526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ7k8hw2p9-LQPlXV5sdiVN0SAkqaGyPhz9dqqg7cZAcDKjTKfHLBBgIZLobBhE9hoEx-nQZ_lmqoI-5obbeaYTOnw8ofFhBz5FPIXrp-Q4NX08XcgBRj2TZd-iRsD6tLA3zZTvyNQHNY/s320/20131216_064526.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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To make a clean end to the piping, cross the ends at center back on crown.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbI803Cuo-fbps7V7kf84FxX7qHPyiOk6n4TCkcDJsI2cEFSS3REdpP4gn3mDo9Ga28Jz0-tLTaFi16w_qGlgnpXJcaa2hxhWIt95WZOa-A3DqSkv6gIdVCjhxLjOwODJR3qdMZmcNsjk/s1600/20131216_065414(0).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbI803Cuo-fbps7V7kf84FxX7qHPyiOk6n4TCkcDJsI2cEFSS3REdpP4gn3mDo9Ga28Jz0-tLTaFi16w_qGlgnpXJcaa2hxhWIt95WZOa-A3DqSkv6gIdVCjhxLjOwODJR3qdMZmcNsjk/s320/20131216_065414(0).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Next clip the outside curves.<br />
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioz35FEIc63DUb0UvCxti0JEt8T_fMJ3QnhPI0ZdcgrrEEYd03af6wVao55yZlMca0ShOu3yJNuVb0flZt0XKVAGEKnOIa4suu7X0pjwTQsM7Mf08Fkw2b81SgAPYgaqJGYlpqJhBEKdo/s320/20131216_070038.jpg" width="240" /></div>
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All the other construction has previously been discussed, but I'll leave the construction pictures here if you are interested.<br />
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-78075021583365021342013-12-21T08:57:00.001-08:002013-12-21T09:34:16.224-08:00View C part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf65dJVn3XNq0dNZBWJLfl6iiuhBG0Ols-DK2jEHySYSRRk5pFhcsHjcvIQTCQUOCq9A8TigJo0HYlPYk9ms9mkjHzZBS0xtF43IIb-j3btEuM-EatIOj21C8oS_CNYPnSc5jlfxgVsTw/s1600/Collage_20131217-151719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf65dJVn3XNq0dNZBWJLfl6iiuhBG0Ols-DK2jEHySYSRRk5pFhcsHjcvIQTCQUOCq9A8TigJo0HYlPYk9ms9mkjHzZBS0xtF43IIb-j3btEuM-EatIOj21C8oS_CNYPnSc5jlfxgVsTw/s400/Collage_20131217-151719.jpg" width="242" /></a></div>
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<h3>
View C </h3>
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A shirred exterior</div>
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A simple interior with ruffled trim</div>
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And piping along the outside edge</div>
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<h4>
Cutting For Exterior and Interior</h4>
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This picture is a little hard to understand so let me explain it. The white line that crosses through the simple brim is my silk taffetas seam allowance. The Shirring pannel has been placed on the fold and 1/4 of an inch has been added for "Turn of Cloth". </div>
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You are cutting:</div>
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1 shirring pannel on fold</div>
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1 simple brim on bias</div>
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2 crowns on bias</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjev2bhfuE380E6F1X69eB-jFibqBD-hSFPO9s6xN7UlScxlfwT5JsjS7fM0psPzFvxF-HpKmkNzQ5RdHGF1sIGhkQbrlCtO8cxV33f52P1y4vs0iGbRj-1IBPOCFjcZtGLrHcajN8ZhQI/s1600/20131212_165357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjev2bhfuE380E6F1X69eB-jFibqBD-hSFPO9s6xN7UlScxlfwT5JsjS7fM0psPzFvxF-HpKmkNzQ5RdHGF1sIGhkQbrlCtO8cxV33f52P1y4vs0iGbRj-1IBPOCFjcZtGLrHcajN8ZhQI/s320/20131212_165357.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Next you need to mark the shirring lines on the shirring pannel, the ruffle placement lines on the simple brim, and the center marks and X's on the crown.<br />
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-31712565758683302402013-12-07T23:35:00.002-08:002013-12-07T23:36:30.855-08:00View B Part 3At this point you should have the exterior layer constructed and set aside, as well as the interior layer constructed and whip stitched to the buckram form.<br />
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<h3>
Attach Exterior Layer to Buckram Form</h3>
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Fold seam allowances to wrong side, match centers and pin Exterior layer to the buckram form.</div>
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Once the Exterior layeris pinned to the buckram form, use a<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Hand-Sewing-Basic-Slip-Stitch-Blind-Stitch/" target="_blank"> slip stitch</a> to hand sew it to the buckram form.<br />
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The concludes the tutorial for View 3.<br />
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You may notice that I'm not including trimming the bonnet, this is because I'm not looking for exact duplicates. I trust you to trim your bonnet however you see fit. Just for your reference, the View B's example that I made is trimmed with a large embroidered net lace collar that I ordered from China on Ebay. It was $10. I guess what I'm saying is, find pretty things for your bonnet and trim away. </div>
ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-80690527403360207682013-12-06T17:25:00.000-08:002013-12-06T17:25:04.274-08:00View B Part 2<h3>
Cutting for Interior Layer</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH4Sk7_t9aERjO-A6fh17fy4HAtyMT0wP9RXmRtpoVMByGK9hL7SfqEQ1tIFY8954wLbka-kOFsIiADbXmJTFFvIUeCvVvdm0FHUxulImqvhJTyRMot4nH3KK60JZagJcEZcSm6G6W4lQ/s1600/20131121_153840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH4Sk7_t9aERjO-A6fh17fy4HAtyMT0wP9RXmRtpoVMByGK9hL7SfqEQ1tIFY8954wLbka-kOFsIiADbXmJTFFvIUeCvVvdm0FHUxulImqvhJTyRMot4nH3KK60JZagJcEZcSm6G6W4lQ/s320/20131121_153840.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cut one Crown on Bias<br />
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Cut one Shirring Panel on Fold. Remember when I talked about<a href="http://reincarnationlolita.blogspot.com/2013/12/turn-of-cloth-and-millinery.html?m=0" target="_blank"> Turn of Cloth</a>? This is where that comes into play. I have given you 1/2 of an inch for seam allowance. This is most likely enough. It was for my silk taffeta. But maybe your covering your bonnet in Velvet or something else thick... 1/2 an inch wont be enough. I added 1/4 of an inch to the oustide seam allowance. Truth be told I ended up cutting it away, but better safe than sorry. It's quite a lot of work to go through to make this shirring panel. You wouldn't want to hve to make it again just because it was 1/4" of an inch too short.</div>
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<h3>
Interior Construction</h3>
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With your favorite marking method, mark all shirring channels. (I mark a straight line in the center) Fold between each shirring channel.</div>
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<h4>
Creating Shirring Channels</h4>
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You are going to need some cord, or heavy string. You could use button hole twist, or embroidery thread. I'm using crochet cotton by DMC.</div>
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Place the crochet cotton in the fold of the shirring channel.<br />
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Sew a scant 1/8 of an inch from the folds edge. Be careful not to catch the crochet cotton in your stitches.</div>
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Once all your channels are finished use a wide eyed needle and tie knots on one side of the shirring panels shirring chords.</div>
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Now on both sides of the shirring pannels seam allowances (outside edge, and crown/seam allowance) Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches, inside the seam allowances.</div>
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Now on the Brim/Crown side, pull up gathering stitches. Match center with Crowns center. Sew Brim/Crown seam.</div>
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Ok, just to be clear, you are sewing from one edge to the other, don't leave off the seam allowances on the outside edges of the X's.</div>
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Also, you can use either side of the shirring pannel as the right side. I am using the inside folded edge as my right side.</div>
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Now pin the interior cover to the buckram form, matching centers. Remember that there will be 1/2 of an inch seam allowances on all sides. Draw up shirring chords to fit the buckram form.</div>
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Work your way from the Brim/Crown seam, drawing up on cord at a time. The very last will be the 2 lines of gathering stitches that are in the outside edge seam allowance.</div>
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Once everything is gathered up pin the outside edge to the form rolling the seam allowance over the buckrams outside edge.</div>
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Now use a whip stitch and sew the interior layers seam allowance to the external mull.</div>
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Whatever left over seam allowance you can trim away. Especially at the round Brim corners. When you do trim away, make sure you don't clip the shirring channel cords.</div>
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-12276816477689872872013-12-06T15:18:00.000-08:002013-12-06T15:23:11.480-08:00View B part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<h2>
View B </h2>
A simple exterior,<br />
A Shirred interior,<br />
A ruffle along the outside edge<br />
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<h3>
Cutting for Exterior:</h3>
Cut 1 simple brim on Bias with 1/2 inch seam allowance included<br />
Cut 1 Crown on Bias with 1/2 inch seam allowance included<br />
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<h3>
Exterior Application:</h3>
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Mark X's and Centers on both brim and crown. Sew between X's in Brim/Crown seam. DO NOT sew to fabrics edge.<br />
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Notch seam allowances between X's and trim.</div>
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With a water soluable pen mark X's on right side of fabric.<br />
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Using a 1/2" seam allowance apply ruffle or lace to the entire oustide edge of Brim and Crown. When you get to X's in Brim and Crown seam, sink your needle into X and pivot, making sure not to catch seam allowances.<br />
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When completed with Exertior cover, set asside. </div>
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-48463524175589210652013-12-03T10:46:00.000-08:002013-12-03T11:40:21.199-08:00Turn of Cloth and MillineryMost good millinery patterns that you can buy, don't include seam allowances. The reason for this is simply summed up in the concept of "Turn of Cloth".<br>
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The idea of "Turn of Cloth" is based on the premise that fabric itself has demension, and to create items that are constructed of different layers of fabric, the layers on the exterior will be larger than the layers on the interior. Most of the time when using "Turn of Cloth" a small amount of fabric will be cut away from the garments lining, to make the finished seam lay without any bubbles or unsightly bumps. This technique is used on collars especially. "Turn of Cloth" is also known as seam rolling, or pin rolling. Corset makers use this technique often by placing the fabic over their knee while pinning, so that the lining layer is shorter than the fashion layer.<br>
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You can also think of "Turn of Cloth" as the layers of an onion. The interior layers are smaller than the outside layers. Or as those cute Russian stacking dolls. The outside doll needs to be large enough to fit all of the tiny dolls inside.<br>
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Unfortunately for millinery makers, we are not working from the outside in. We are starting with the most inward layer, the buckram form. The more layers we add to the buckram the larger our fabric pieces need to be. This is why most millinery patterns don't include seam allowance. It's very simple to remove extra fabric, but imposible to add fabric once it's been cut away.</div>
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For view A this wasn't a problem. All of the pattern pieces are cut on the bias and are stretchy. Also the oustide edge is covered with bias tape. And if you remember I asked you to cut the bias tape a small amount wider. This is to account for "turn of cloth".</div>
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Unfortunately, the shirring pannel is cut on the grain, and will not be stretchy to pull over the outside edge. So as the pattern develper, I have given you 1/2 of an inch to compensate for turn of cloth. Depending on your fabrics thickness however this may be too much, or it may not be enough. I can't know, because all fabrics are different. My best advice is to cut extra for yourself. You will be able to remove it if it's too much.<br>
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So you can see why most millinery patterns don't include seam allowances, they avoid the headache of "turn of cloth" entirely. I've decided to educate instead, and give you a pattern that falls in the middle of the road. I think it best to trust in the users ability instead of pretending like you won't understand the concept of "Turn of Cloth". And anyway, it's not my fault, blame geometry. :) Jerky Math, always getting in the way of my creativity.<br>
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<br>ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-27048519608429681892013-11-21T13:09:00.002-08:002013-11-23T08:35:15.330-08:00View A Part 3<h3>
Bias Binding</h3>
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This tutorial is done in the prospective of hand sewing. You can of course do this on the machine, but you may not have as nice of results.</div>
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You will need approximately 2 yards of bias tape. You can either use the <a href="http://reincarnationlolita.blogspot.com/2013/11/bias-tape-tutorial.html" target="_blank">video tutorial</a> from my blog to make your own bias tape, or you can use pre made <a href="http://www.wrights.com/p-770-wrights-extra-wide-double-fold-bias-tape-3-yards.aspx" target="_blank">bias tape</a>.</div>
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If you are using your own bias tape, you will need to pre fold one side at 1/2 an inch. Like I say in the video, the bonnet will be thick, and it's hard to accurately predict how wide the bias tape will need to be to have an accurate 1/2 an inch of bias tape on either side of the bonnet. That being said, if you pre fold the exterior side at 1/2 an inch (that being the side that is most offten seen) and by eye, fold the interior side as close as possible to 1/2 an inch, you will get a more pleasing result.</div>
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I use a metal <a href="http://www.dritz.com/brands/showcase/details.php?ITEM_NUM=617" target="_blank">pressing ruler</a> to do this.</div>
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You will apply bias tape with a staggered <a href="http://sewing.wikia.com/wiki/Back_Stitch" target="_blank">back-stitch</a>. The difference between back-stitch and a staggered back-stitch is instead of starting your next stitch at the base of the last stitch, begin your stitch halfway between your new stitch and your last....thus staggered.<br />
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Your needles grab should be about 1/4 of an inch, the finished stitch will be half that length about 1/8 of an inch.<br />
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The most difficult areas to apply will be the corners. There are 4 outside corners and 2 inside corners.<br />
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<h4>
Outside Corners</h4>
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You will be applying the bias tape to the bonnets exterior to start with. </div>
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Put a <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/sewing-how-to-running-stitch/" target="_blank">Running Stitch</a> through the area of bias tape that will be applied to the bonnets outside corner. Pull the thread taught and arrange the bias tape to the outside corner so that the fabric is smooth. Again, use the staggered back-stitch to sew the bias tape to the bonnet.</blockquote>
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<h4>
Inside Corner</h4>
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You will start the inside corner by placing the bias binding along one side of the corner. Measure 1/2 an inch to the interior and 1/2 an inch from the bias edge. You should have a perfect 45 degree angle from the bonnets inside corner edge.</div>
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Stagger back-stitch back to your last completed outside corner.</div>
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Now make a 45 degree fold in the bias tape and line up the bias tape to the bonnets edge. Starting at the inside corner, made sure that there are no folds in the bias tape, start your staggered back-stitches and work onward to the next outside corner. </div>
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<h3>
Interior Bias Binding.</h3>
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Once the exterior binding is finished , roll the bias tape over the bonnets edge and fold the bias tape leaving 1/2 of an inch bias tape on the interior side.</div>
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Pin and fold all the bias tape on the interior side. Smooth as you, go, create small pleats at outside corners, and make a 45 degree fold at the inside corners.</div>
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You will use a <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Hand-Sewing-Basic-Slip-Stitch-Blind-Stitch/" target="_blank">slip stitch</a> to attach the bias binding on the interior.</div>
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That concludes the View A tutorial.</div>
ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-77852559666838826052013-11-21T10:56:00.001-08:002013-11-21T10:58:34.115-08:00View A Part 2<h3>
Interior Layer</h3>
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The interior layer of View A is a simple Brim with ruffle/lace trim.<br />
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You will need to cut 1 of each Brim and Crown. These are both cut on the bias. Once cut out, using your prefered method, mark the placement lines for the ruffle/lace trim. The pattern is marked for 1 inch trim. I have made my own trim using 1 inch strips of flocked poly organza. It has been given rolled hems on both raw edges and then gathered. This isn't necessary, you can use store bought trim.<br />
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Sew the trim down row by row, starting with the outmost row and working inward toward the crown/brim seam. The last piece of ruffled trim will actually be placed in the crown/brim seam.</div>
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Remove the excess trim to make the brims edges more apparent. </div>
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Now, matching centers, seam the brim to crown.</div>
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As Exterior layer, notch and trim Brim/Crown seam.</div>
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Now matching center lines, apply internal layer to buckram form.</div>
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It's completely possible to apply the layers to buckram by hand. You can just use a whip stitch and puncture through from interior layer to exterior layer and whip your sewing thread around outside wired edge to puncture interior layer again. </div>
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Also, if you are using a home machine, please use a heavy needle, and be careful at the brim/crown seam. There are 2 lines of wire at that point.</div>
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Next we will do the bias binding tutorial. </div>
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<br />ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-28695846719251651802013-11-20T17:37:00.001-08:002013-11-21T10:58:14.600-08:00View A Part 1View A is a simple exterior, a simple interior with lace or ruffle decorations and a bias binding.
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This example bonnet is covered 100% Kona Cotton and Flocked Poly Organza. </div>
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<h3>
External Layer</h3>
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I cut a Brim and a Crown piece from both the Kona Cotton and the Flocked Organza. I used a technique known as "flat lining" to cover the external layer. Basically flat lining means to treat 2 layers of fabric as 1. </div>
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Here is a great tutorial on doing flat lining:</div>
http://thedreamstress.com/2013/10/tutorial-how-to-sew-flat-lining/<br />
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You will find though that because the bonnet is curved you will most likely need to pull out the outside stitches (stitches along the binding edge) that hold the 2 layers together, because they will tend to bubble. You will only know if you need to do this once you try to apply the fabric to the buckram form.<br />
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Once all is cut, seam the crown to brim between marks provided. Once seamed you need to notch and trim seam. Notch close to seam but don't cut threads, trim seam allowance to 1/4 of an inch. Press seam back toward crown. Use a tailors ham or sleeve board to make seam flat.</div>
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Obviously, make sure you mark your centers, both on the crown and the brim. Match up all centers to centers on buckram form. You can hand sew or machine sew along the outside edge to attach the external cover to the buckram form. You will be sewing through the buckram form. For some reason I didn't take a picture of this step. </div>
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Next blog post will be the internal layer and the binding.</div>
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<br />ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-51980329086547522612013-11-19T21:08:00.001-08:002013-12-21T10:28:26.844-08:00Bias tape tutorial<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="344" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/x3__ZQ0DSWg" width="459"></iframe>ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-91431265744098706982013-11-19T21:04:00.000-08:002013-11-21T10:18:08.464-08:00Applying mull to buckram<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="344" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/SkipNWHwDNM" width="459"></iframe>ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-17301883964473487692013-11-14T13:14:00.001-08:002013-11-19T21:04:33.999-08:00Mulling with Felt<div dir="ltr">
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You will need a small amount of fusable adhesive, such as Heat and Bond, Stitch Witchery or Steam a Seam, and a wire brush. This will be added to the cutting layout section of the pattern. Sorry guys! This is why we have a beta test after all! :)</div>
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The main thing to keep in mind about the mull layer, is that it's purpose is to smooth and soften the buckram form. Felt is obviously heavier than cotton flannel, so steps need to be taken so that the seam allowance doesn't cause a ridge of layered fabric.</div>
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I have come up with two solutions to this problem. You will be using both methods, one for internal, and one for external application.</div>
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When you go to cut out the brim and crown pieces cut off the seam allowances. You will need 2 of each piece. Because felt is not woven, you can place your pieces anywhere on your felt. You will also need to cut a half inch strip of felt about 13 inches long.<br />
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For the interior application, you can, if you choose, use a three-stage zig zag and a specialty foot with a center bar to join the crown to brim abutted. Abutted means edge to edge.</div>
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Or you can attach the brim and crown pieces separately to the buckram form (obviously matching centers) and whip stitch the crown to the brim. I choose to attach the brim to crown by hand as I feel like I have more control that way. I use a whip stitch to do this. My stitches are loose so that they do not create a ridge.<br />
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For exterior application you will attach the brim and crown pieces to the back room form separately. The pieces will leave a small gap where the brim and crown meet. Using your steam a seam or whatever fusible adhesive you are using, apply adhesive to the gap between crown and bream. Now apply that 13"x1/2" strip of felt. Using a wire brush, brush the felt strip so that its edges are blurred. Now you can pat, trim and brush at the felt strips until the transition between crown and brim is smooth.<br />
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<self back pat><br />
I've never seen anyone else mull a bonnet in this way, but to be honest, I think it's the smoothest and most seamless method I've ever seen.<br />
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At this point you are ready to put your fashion layer on your bonnet. :) as a bonus I did a video of using steam to soften the buckrams glue to temperarily hold down the mull layer.</div>
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-5250712966413108492013-11-13T14:50:00.002-08:002013-11-13T15:14:38.065-08:00Mulling with cotton flannel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Before cutting into your pattern, you should make a few copies. Depending on the pattern peice your going to need different seam allowances.</div>
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Covering a buckram form is not as difficult as it would seem. If you take easy steps to ensure success, this project should not take long to complete. First of all you should have all of your materials ready. Don't prewash, unless you are allergic to sizing, it's not bad to leave the factory finish on materials for your bonnet. Also keep in mind that you cannot get your bonnet wet. Buckram is sized with glue. The glue is water soluble and will disintegrate when wet. So don't go out in the rain in your bonnet. </div>
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The main reasoning behind prewashing your fabric in sewing projects, is to preshrink your material before you make it into a garment. This implies that you would actually wash on your bonnet which you're not going to do! So why go through the hassle of prewashing your fabric? What you should do however, is make sure all of your fabrics have been pressed with a good amount of steam. You're going to want to make sure that all of your grain lines are square so that you can find the bias.</div>
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You're going to cut 2 on the bias of both the brim and crown pieces. Using whatever is your favorite method of marking, mark the seam lines on both the brim and crown pieces. My favorite method is using pins and wax tailor chalk. I pin through my pattern and both layers of fabric and using my wax chalk I mark the seam allowance. You will also need to mark the center line.</div>
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Once you have made all of your marks, match right side to wrong side. It doesn't matter if the crown is stacked on top of the brim, or the brim is on top of the crown. You need to however, match centre marks and pin running down the seam.</div>
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You are doing this strange seam consconstruction to reduce on seam bulk. The purpose of the mull layer is to smooth and soften the buckram form. You want to reduce as many bumps as possible. </div>
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Using a three-stage zig zag stitch, sew the crown and brim together. Do this to both the the exterior and interior layers. Once the seams are done, trim your seam allowances to as close as possible without cutting the sewing threads. Trim both the brim and crown seam allowances.</div>
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To apply the mull layer to the buckram form, you will be sewing through the buckram form and into the mull. You can either do this by machine or by hand. One trick I have learned though, to temporarily attach the mull to the buckram form, is to use a small amount of steam from your iron and soften the buckrams glue. This will stick down the mull long enough to be able to sew it in place.</div>
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5840820495438919683.post-79951737753748005922013-11-12T17:14:00.000-08:002013-11-14T12:22:03.243-08:00Introduction to Reincarnation ClothingReincarnation clothing started as a small clothing line specialising in alternative fashion using upcycled recycled and vintage textiles. It was created for a venue called Artifact in Las Vegas. In the spring of 2013 we did a fashion show for Artifact on the UNLV campus. It was always the intention for Reincarnation Clothing to be more than just upcycled clothing. It was also meant for the term "reincarnation" to encompass not just the clothing but also the wearer. Lolita and alternative fashion transforms and reincarnates the wearer into all that is feminine, idyllic and innocent.<br>
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When I started Reincarnation Clothing I did it with a lot of help from my friend Heather Irete. I would like to thank her for all the hard work she put in with starting the Facebook page, the Tumblr, the Instagram and the beautiful logo. Heather is a very talented artist, and although she no longer designs for Reincarnation Clothing she is very much appreciated here. If you would like to visit her website or etsy here are the links, www.etsy.com/shop/AngelicThreadsEGL<br>
www.heatherirete.com<br>
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A little bit about me. My name is Twila Taylor or TwilaTee, I am a professional seamstress, historical costumer, and I try my hand at cosplay from time to time. I make things. Lots and lots and lots and lots of things. You know I've even made a tent? Just I needed a tent, so I made one!. It's just in my nature to make things. I enjoy figuring out how things go together, its fun, like a puzzle.<br>
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When I was young my dad would tell me that you needed to be interested to be interesting. Meaning that the more things that you know how to do, the more worthy you are to know. And its true. The only things that we keep with us when we leave this life are our abilities and our experiences. It's been a life mission to encourage others to sew. What a fun transformative skill, to be able to make your own clothing. This leads us back to the term "reincarnation". How empowering! To be able to decide what changes you want to make, how you want to look, how you want to act, and to be able to enable that change in yourself for yourself. This is what Reincarnation Clothing is about.<br>
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I have decided to make a line of sewing patterns geared towards Lolita. Using my knowledge of historical millinery, my first pattern uses historical techniques to make a quality and beautiful bonnet. The "Dinah" is named after my mother, and is an Elegant, Gothic, Lolita half bonnet in 3 views. View A has a bias binding, a simple exterior brim and simple interior brim with lace and ruffled decoration. View B has a simple exterior brim, a shirring panel interior, and a ruffle along the outside edge. View C has a shirring panel exterior, a simple interior with ruffle and lace decoration, and piping along the outside edge.<br>
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I will be posting two tutorials on methods to mull your bonnet shortly. In the meantime, here are some definitions of terms we will be using, and some examples of shirred, or drawn bonnets. (we use shirred because it's the more modern term)<br>
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Buckram- <span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">a stiff-finished heavily sized fabric of cotton or linen used for interlinings in garments, for stiffening in millinery, and in bookbinding. Buckram can be bought in 1 and 2 ply.</span></span><br>
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Mull- a fabric layer applied to a buckram form to pad and soften any harsh corners or imperfections the the buckram form. Usually cotton flannel, but any soft napped material will be sutable.<br>
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Bias- <span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18px;">Bias grain is the thread line that is at a forty five degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric as it is on the bolt.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18px;"> </span></span><br>
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<span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br></span></span>Bias Binding Tape-<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 20px;">a narrow strip of cloth cut on the bias, folded once or twice, and used chiefly for finishing and decorating clothing</span><br>
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Piping-<span style="background-color: white; color: #505050; font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 19px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Cord that is covered in fabric and used to decorate a seam</span></span><br>
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Millinery wire- sold invarious gages and wrapped in thread, millinery wire<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Guardian-EgypTT-Text, Georgia, serif; line-height: 25px;"> is used for providing shape and definition to a hat brim edge or crown, to reinforce wide brims, buckram forms, or to construct skeleton frames</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: Guardian-EgypTT-Text, Georgia, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 25px;">.</span><br>
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Buckram form- a basic hat pattern that is edged in millinery wire and has it's edges covered with bias binding. It is intened for covering in either fabric or straw.<br>
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and here is some eye candy... pulled from pintrest... a bunch of shirred or drawn bonnets, one of them mine. It's always fun to see my work pop up on other peoples pintrests. I'm so glad people use the tutorials. :)<br>
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The last is my tutorial</div>
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http://twilatee.blogspot.ca/2011/06/regency-drawn-bonnet-pattern-and.html</div>
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ReiCARNATIONhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17579226454476939472noreply@blogger.com0