View B Part 2

Cutting for Interior Layer

 Cut one Crown on Bias

Cut one Shirring Panel on Fold. Remember when I talked about Turn of Cloth? This is where that comes into play. I have given you 1/2 of an inch for seam allowance. This is most likely enough. It was for my silk taffeta. But maybe your covering your bonnet in Velvet or something else thick... 1/2 an inch wont be enough. I added 1/4 of an inch to the oustide seam allowance. Truth be told I ended up cutting it away, but better safe than sorry. It's quite a lot of work to go through to make this shirring panel. You wouldn't want to hve to make it again just because it was 1/4" of an inch too short.

Interior Construction

With your favorite marking method, mark all shirring channels. (I mark a straight line in the center) Fold between each shirring channel.

Creating Shirring Channels

You are going to need some cord, or heavy string. You could use button hole twist, or embroidery thread. I'm using crochet cotton by DMC.

 Place the crochet cotton in the fold of the shirring channel.

Sew a scant 1/8 of an inch from the folds edge. Be careful not to catch the crochet cotton in your stitches.

 

Once all your channels are finished use a wide eyed needle and tie knots on one side of the shirring panels shirring chords.

Now on both sides of the shirring pannels seam allowances (outside edge, and crown/seam allowance) Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches, inside the seam allowances.

Now on the Brim/Crown side, pull up gathering stitches. Match center with Crowns center. Sew Brim/Crown seam.

 

Ok, just to be clear, you are sewing from one edge to the other, don't leave off the seam allowances on the outside edges of the X's.

Also, you can use either side of the shirring pannel as the right side. I am using the inside folded edge as my right side.

Now pin the interior cover to the buckram form, matching centers. Remember that there will be 1/2 of an inch seam allowances on all sides. Draw up shirring chords to fit the buckram form.

Work your way from the Brim/Crown seam, drawing up on cord at a time. The very last will be the 2 lines of gathering stitches that are in the outside edge seam allowance.

Once everything is gathered up pin the outside edge to the form rolling the seam allowance over the buckrams outside edge.

Now use a whip stitch and sew the interior layers seam allowance to the external mull.

Whatever left over seam allowance you can trim away. Especially at the round Brim corners. When you do trim away, make sure you don't clip the shirring channel cords.