You will need a small amount of fusable adhesive, such as Heat and Bond, Stitch Witchery or Steam a Seam, and a wire brush. This will be added to the cutting layout section of the pattern. Sorry guys! This is why we have a beta test after all! :)
The main thing to keep in mind about the mull layer, is that it's purpose is to smooth and soften the buckram form. Felt is obviously heavier than cotton flannel, so steps need to be taken so that the seam allowance doesn't cause a ridge of layered fabric.
I have come up with two solutions to this problem. You will be using both methods, one for internal, and one for external application.
When you go to cut out the brim and crown pieces cut off the seam allowances. You will need 2 of each piece. Because felt is not woven, you can place your pieces anywhere on your felt. You will also need to cut a half inch strip of felt about 13 inches long.
For the interior application, you can, if you choose, use a three-stage zig zag and a specialty foot with a center bar to join the crown to brim abutted. Abutted means edge to edge.
For the interior application, you can, if you choose, use a three-stage zig zag and a specialty foot with a center bar to join the crown to brim abutted. Abutted means edge to edge.
Or you can attach the brim and crown pieces separately to the buckram form (obviously matching centers) and whip stitch the crown to the brim. I choose to attach the brim to crown by hand as I feel like I have more control that way. I use a whip stitch to do this. My stitches are loose so that they do not create a ridge.
For exterior application you will attach the brim and crown pieces to the back room form separately. The pieces will leave a small gap where the brim and crown meet. Using your steam a seam or whatever fusible adhesive you are using, apply adhesive to the gap between crown and bream. Now apply that 13"x1/2" strip of felt. Using a wire brush, brush the felt strip so that its edges are blurred. Now you can pat, trim and brush at the felt strips until the transition between crown and brim is smooth.
For exterior application you will attach the brim and crown pieces to the back room form separately. The pieces will leave a small gap where the brim and crown meet. Using your steam a seam or whatever fusible adhesive you are using, apply adhesive to the gap between crown and bream. Now apply that 13"x1/2" strip of felt. Using a wire brush, brush the felt strip so that its edges are blurred. Now you can pat, trim and brush at the felt strips until the transition between crown and brim is smooth.
<self back pat>
I've never seen anyone else mull a bonnet in this way, but to be honest, I think it's the smoothest and most seamless method I've ever seen.
</self back pat>
I've never seen anyone else mull a bonnet in this way, but to be honest, I think it's the smoothest and most seamless method I've ever seen.
</self back pat>
At this point you are ready to put your fashion layer on your bonnet. :) as a bonus I did a video of using steam to soften the buckrams glue to temperarily hold down the mull layer.
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